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Thursday, November 30, 2006

Lytham St Annes - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Link: Lytham St Annes - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Fairhaven, another district between Lytham and St Annes, lies between Ansdell and the coast. It is named after Thomas Fair, an early resident of Lytham St Annes. Its main claim to fame is its artificial lake, known as Fairhaven Lake or more formally as the Ashton Marine Park, which is an important wildfowl habitat. Its other famous landmark is the Fairhaven United Reformed Church, which is of unusual design, being built in Byzantine style and faced with glazed white tiles, and commonly known as the White Church, or 'the mosque' due to the dome shaped towers protruding from its sides.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

The Commissioner's Life

I envy the life of Joe Cahn, to some extent.  Anyone who spends their days traveling between college football games and cooking up a gourmet tailgate has a blessed experience in my book. 

Continue reading "The Commissioner's Life" »

Thursday, September 14, 2006

76 degrees South: Tour of The Simpson

76 degrees South: Tour of The Simpson.

The British Antarctic Survey's Ice and Climate Platform.  Very cool.  Would they be interested in recovering American lawyers?  They could call me barrister if they like. 

Sunday, February 13, 2005

Barbarian at the Gates

...As in Christo's Gates.  I was up in Manhattan this weekend for the Politician's birthday, which was celebrated with much aplomb.  We saw the cheerleader-assisted pop-punk band "Bling Kong" (not even close to safe for work, particularly given the rather... "enthusiastic" advice column therein) at the Mercury Lounge, which may be one of the more surreal live acts I've ever seen.  I highly recommend a viewing, if you get the chance. 

Saturday was spent drinking much coffee and then engaging in a forty block tromp around Central Park to take pictures of The Gates.   I shot three or four rolls there, so I should have something up soon (actually, I've got a few rolls I've been waiting on, (1) because I need to get a new scanner, and (2) because I've been spending every shop class working on developing the new site). 

I don't think Christo, artist behind The Gates, is any sort of genius.  As I said to a fellow tri-state area blawger, I think there's a certain element of "The Music Man" con artistry behind these giant art projects that Christo does, but that works out just fine. 

See, the key thing is not that there was art in Central Park.  There's always art in Central Park, whether it be the sculptures throughout (even some of the playgrounds, like the Safari Park, are art) or the Met or the view of Frank Lloyd Wright's Guggenheim.  The key thing about the Gates?  New Yorkers (and the like) were promenading about the park as though it were the 19th Century.  They We wandered aimlessly (which, I can assure you, is not a normal behavior for New Yorkers).  Strangers chatted (again, rare in privacy-respecting New York) with each other. 

The art itself was pleasant, unassuming stuff.  The Gates remind me of Shinto arches, and have a moderate height (the enormity of the project comes from the miles and miles of the park covered in these orange nylon-and-steel archways).  I don't know how well my pictures will come out, as they are just big enough and (strangely) unevenly spaced out, so that a multiple gate shot is not always uniform. 

Wednesday, December 15, 2004

On Turkey

Gadling, the travel blog, has two posts on traveling to Turkey (something I would like to do someday):

Monday, April 19, 2004

The Post In Which I Comment On BloggerCon in a Fashion Clearly Stolen from McSweeney’s Internet Tendency And For Which David Eggers Would Have Every Right To Sue Me For Infringement*


* But for which Neal Pollack would be told to go pound salt.

On Friday, April 16, 2004, I traveled to Cambridge, Massachusetts to attend the BloggerCon lectures at Harvard Law School. I was in attendance because of my interest in Jay Rosen’s piece on weblogs and journalism, and also because of my interest in seeing some sort of social commentary develop regarding weblogs. Normally, after attending a program like BloggerCon, I would have based an essay of this sort on the notes I took during the seminars. Unfortunately, the only note I made at BloggerCon was the hastily-scribbled “That is the weirdest receding hairline I have ever seen.”

Continue reading "The Post In Which I Comment On BloggerCon in a Fashion Clearly Stolen from McSweeney’s Internet Tendency And For Which David Eggers Would Have Every Right To Sue Me For Infringement*" »

Wednesday, January 28, 2004

To join in on the meme (just by virtue of my travel obsession, I couldn't help), here's my visited states and countries maps. Until seeing the states map, I didn't realize how little I had left.

This, incidentally, is a result of the fact that my family rarely used air travel. My father hates planes as much as BA Barracas.

pity.jpg

visited_states_map.bmp

visited_countries_map.bmp

I need to fill in more red on this one. Someday.

Tuesday, October 07, 2003

that ain't no way to have fun

Will you have whiskey with your water
Or sugar with your tea?
What are these crazy questions
That they're asking of me?
This is the wildest party that there ever could be
Oh, don't turn on the light 'cause I don't want to see
Mama told me not to come
Mama told me not to come
Mama said, "That ain't no way to have fun"

- Randy Newman, Mama Told Me Not to Come, from 12 Songs (1970).

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“Are we there yet?”
“You know you’re not allowed to ask that.”
“It had to be asked,” Zoya said.
“Oh no it did not,” I answered, “besides, we’re only in Nyack. We’ve got another four hours. Minimum. It all depends on Connecticut. That place is always a clusterfuck.”
“I used to date someone from there.”
“Why doesn’t that surprise me?”
“Very funny.”
“What? You have a boyfriend in, like, every state. A home in every port, you little bugger.”
“Hey. Play nice.”
“Oh,” I said, waiving my hand defensively, “Sorry. Sorry.”
Up ahead of us, a sign indicated that we were approaching the Tappan Zee Bridge.
“Well, anyway, we’re safely out of New Jersey, at least.”
“No thanks to your driving,” Zoya deadpanned.
“I’m a spectacular driver. I am Evil-Goddamn-Knievel, thank you very much.”
“I had nightmares about your driving last night. I couldn’t sleep at all.”
“Well,” I replied, “that’s patently false.”
“How so?”
“Well,” I sighed, “You couldn’t have had nightmares unless you were sleeping. It’s a logical inconsistency. Therefore, you probably slept quite well last night, thanks to my driving. And, for proof, I can turn to your claim that you had many nightmares.”
“You are such a lawyer,” Zoya said, looking through her purse.
“And you could barely survive cross-examination,” I answered before pulling a cigarette from my jacket’s breast pocket. “Besides, I’m barely a lawyer. There’s such a tenuous grasp here it isn’t even funny.”

We drove through West Nyack in silence. As we made our way to the bridge, Zoya fiddled with the CD changer until Fountains of Wayne’s Valley Winter Song came on. We sang along, unashamed. Zoya had a wonderful voice, and I never minded singing with others. After the song ended, we returned to silence.
An hour later, Zoya broke the silence. “I hate when you do that.”
“Do what?”
“Put yourself down. You always do that to yourself. Even my mother noticed.”
I shrugged. “It’s humor. That’s all.”
“But why?” Zoya asked, exasperated. “Why does it always have to be always at your expense?”
I paused and thought. “I don’t know, you know… it’s just….”
It was something I used to diffuse situations. People seemed more relaxed when I put myself down.
“It’s just my way, I guess,” I said slowly, “I use self-deprecating humor so that people don’t, you know….”
“Don’t what?” Zoya encouraged.
“Well…. I think people think I’m arrogant. If I mock myself, they calm down about that.”
“What do you care what people think about you?” Zoya asked.
“Well…” I said, looking for another cigarette. I repeated myself. “Well.”
“Hmm?” Zoya threw up her hands.
I didn’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings. That was what I thought. I just didn’t want to sound weak and admit it. I smiled slyly. “Well,” I quipped as I wedged a cigarette between my lips, “I need to think of my jury.”

I lit the cigarette. I don’t know if Zoya was annoyed with my answer, if my cocky defense backfired on me, or if she saw through it. I didn’t know if she would have found the more accurate answer – for, as I rationalized, what I had said to here was not completely inaccurate; it was just misleading – weak or cloying. The defensive answer seemed like a stronger position than the more forthright one. I decided to stick with it.

We continued to crack jokes all the way to Boston. As we made our way up the Mass Pike, I decided to detour off the highway and headed into Newton, rather than making a direct line to our hotel.

We were at Boston College by 8:30 PM on Friday. On the way there, Zoya asked what my campus was like, what going to college was like. She never went to college. While she claimed that going to college would have been a waste of money for her, I wondered if she regretted her decision.
“Ever see pics of Notre Dame? The one in Paris, that is.”
“Sure. I’ve taken some myself,” Zoya answered.
“Well,” I said as I turned onto Commonwealth Avenue, “That is my campus.” I steered the car past the main gate and smiled as Zoya gasped.
“Oh my God. It is.”

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To our left was St. Mary’s Hall, the Jesuit residence. At our right were the Burns Rare Book Library and the Bapst Art Library. Ahead of us was Gasson Hall, where the Honors Program met. Where I spent four years of my life. All of the buildings were granite, with thin, blade-like Gothic spires rising up from them. Gasson Hall was the most impressive, an H-shaped building that had a five story tall clock tower rising up from its center like a hand seeking God.

“It’s like coming home. For me, I mean, you know, going here is more like coming home than returning to Jersey,” I whispered before negotiating a parking space.

We grabbed our camera bags and quietly walked toward Gasson Hall.
“I used to spend hours upon hours in here,” I said, “I didn’t have to take regular classes… it was a sort of great books program, you know, and, uh, well, I took classes here, instead. Western Culture and Tradition seminars, they were called.”
Zoya nodded and smiled a quiet, weird sort of smile. I suppose she understood why I wanted to be there, that I really needed to see the campus, and that I wasn’t merely showing her around. It was my anchor, my reminder that there was a time when I did things that seemed to be of value to me. Things that weren’t destructive.

Zoya and I crossed one of the hallways into the small library where most of my Honors seminars took place. I pulled out my camera and fired off a few shots. Here was where I fought with my professor over Nietzsche, over whether such coldness and cruelty was just. Ironically, I tended to agree with Nietzsche’s cold view of humanity, at least lately, rather than my old view that melded Augustine’s and Montaigne’s sense of sorrow and tolerance. Human kindness. It didn’t seem terribly sensible lately.

Zoya looked up at the stained glass windows, each a replica of a Jesuit school’s crest. I wandered over to the couches where I spent many an afternoon talking of Don Quixote and the Brothers Karamazov. Of heroic fools and embittered skeptics. I rested my hand on the baby grand piano that sat behind the couch I used to use for naps. Once, in college, a girlfriend took me in here late at night. She played Chopin and Rachmaninoff, intensely, until I pulled her from the piano stool and kissed her. I smiled.
“Yeah, Zoya,” I said, “This was home for me.”

We walked out to the central atrium where there were marble statutes of the Archangel Michael defeating the Devil, of St. Ignatius Loyola, and of Seneca, the Roman Philosopher. Above them were frescos of religious phrases and other important figures of Jesuit history.
“Who is that?” Zoya asked, “And why is he with Indians?”
I looked up at the fresco she was identifying, over Seneca’s head.
“That’s Marquette. He converted the Chippewa. They named a school out west for him.”

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The priest in the fresco stood solemnly at the bow of a dugout canoe. At the other end of the hall a fresco asked the question Quis Ut Deus? “Who is like unto God?” Ah, how I loved the Jesuits sense of goals. It wasn’t enough to merely be good. They had to be theological mirrors to the divine. And, in striving for that, the excellence of God, they became some of the most insidious skeptics the Roman Catholic Church had known. Their motto, Ad Majorum Dei Gloriam (“For the Greater Glory of God”), which was inscribed everywhere on campus (and sometimes, where it would not fit, a simple “AMDG” was stamped on an archway’s keystone or on a stairwell). Thus came their glory: critical thought. Inspiration. The great questions.
“Let’s go,” I said, “I have the bladder of an infant.”

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We met up with Adam, my old friend from high school, and Jaydub, my friend from California. It was nearly 10:00 PM, and yet I felt wide awake. We went to Big City, a pool hall and bar in Brookline, a few miles east of Boston College. Over appetizers of fried food, we reconnected.

“So what the hell are you doing up here? You didn’t really want to see BC whip Ball State’s asses, did you?” Adam asked. He scratched his beard as he spoke.
“Well, first of all, you also shall see this ass-whipping. We have tickets for everyone,” I said, “But really, though, I’m here for my brother’s birthday. Flounder turned twenty-one this week.”
“Oh God,” Jaydub deadpanned, “the bars will be ruined.”
“No shit.,” I smiled, “this is going to be fun.” I chortled, then regained my composure. “Ah, college. It’s like oblivion, but with booze.”

“I always feared,” Adam said as he motioned to the stairway. He wanted me to join him for a cigarette break. “I feared that someday he would call me, asking me to buy him beer, and I’d have to figure out whether you’d go apeshit on me for buying it for him or for not buying it for him.”
“Well, did you buy beer for him?” I asked as I put on my synthetic fleece anorak. I hated that Boston had outlawed smoking in the bars.
“No.”
“Then I won’t go apeshit.”

Adam and I made our way downstairs for our cigarettes. I watched, as we walked down the curved staircase, how Zoya interacted with Jaydub and his new girlfriend. The couple huddled together. He smiled, somewhat innocently. A smile of simple pleasure, not a calculated smile. Jaydub had met her during the weekend of my five-year college reunion. I had gotten bored with the school festivities and had gone with him to the Harpoon Brewery’s beer unveiling. Betty, a pretty Irish redhead, ran into us there. She was a friend of Linda, who I had taken to Aruba. Linda was alone now, a med student in Philadelphia. I was alone. A lawyer somehow in Boston. Jaydub and Betty were happy. I didn’t see any of the traps I had learned of in family law when I looked at their relationship. That was a rare thing. A small good thing.

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Saturday was game day. After finding our way to sobriety and consciousness, Zoya and I showered and made our way to Boston College. There, on campus, people were everywhere. We found my family under a tent next to the parking deck for the stadium. My mother chatted with some parents at one side of the tent while my father, in his old federal agent stance, interrogated a few of my brother’s classmates from behind aviator sunglasses.
“Agent Foster Grant,” I said as I gave him a hug.
“I was wondering if you two were going to make it,” my father said.
“We were tired from the drive,” I explained. I didn’t mention that we were also tired from four hours of drinking.
“He snores like a banshee,” Zoya said.
“She whines like a Stradivarius.”
“Asshole.”
“Jezebel.”

My father watched this with no expression on his face. He sucked in a breath and released it slowly.
“I think P. has the grill going over there,” he said after a pause. “Perhaps you could get some sausage. Antipasto. Zoya, is there anything I could get you?”
“And the beer?” I asked.
“Cooler by the grill.”
“Cool. Thanks dad.”

When you’re older, I was learning, there was little need for pretense. I didn’t need to feign a lack of interest in the beer. My father knew I was a child of the drink. He just claimed to not know from where on the family tree this came.

I walked over to the grill where my brother was cooking. He was telling my mother of his birthday celebration. I kissed her on the top of her head.
“Maternal unit,” I said by way of greeting.
“Glad you made it,” my mother said before kissing me on my cheek. “Beer’s in the cooler.” She knew how the family tree worked. My mother greeted Zoya warmly, and gave her a hug and a kiss.
“How was his driving?” She asked.
“Frightening. He hit 105 miles per hour in Connecticut.”
I shrugged, blasé, and turned to my brother.
“Flounder,” I said as I rubbed the stubble on his shaved head.
He sighed. “I am broken. I am so goddamned hung over.”
“That is the first lesson,” I said, “of legal drinking.”
My mother turned to me. “Don’t tell your father.”
I looked at my father. He was wagging his finger at someone, apparently for smoking. He still didn’t know I smoked.
“He’d have a stroke,” I said.
“That doesn’t give you any reason to tell him,” my mother said, dryly.
“Oh no, I don’t want to give him a stroke. I told you guys. The first chance I get, you’re both going into a state-run, Medicaid-funded home.”
“You’re not funny,” my mother said. Zoya gasped.
“You know I am.”
“No, you’re not.”
“Nonetheless,” I said, “Once I get power of attorney, it’s only soft foods for the likes of you.”
“You know, Zoya,” my mother said, “we once had a tailgate for T. His friends were there. They said to him, afterwards, ‘Your parents are so nice. What happened to you?’”
Zoya laughed. I smiled. I remembered when my friends asked that question.
“We wonder the same thing everyday,” My mother continued.
We all laughed. I was good at playing the asshole.

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The game was a blowout. BC beat Ball State by over twenty points. We – Adam, Zoya, Jaydub, Betty, and I – snuck into the reserved student section with my brother. There, I promptly whipped out my telephoto lens and fired off some end zone shots of the game. My brother and I leaned against each other as the game wore on. Eventually, Zoya, still hungover, rested against my other shoulder. We all earned mild sunburns for the afternoon of shouting and applauding. It was Elysium for me. I was there, enjoying myself with those near and dear to me. It was far too fleeting.

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I stood in the corner of my brother’s kitchen that evening, eating chicken and pasta that my parents had ordered from a caterer for my brother’s birthday. I didn’t celebrate my birthday. I had no such events in my past. Flounder was in the other room, singing to his guests – mostly his classmates and their parents – with bizarre, comic versions of show tunes. I sipped on my beer and watched him. My father walked into the kitchen, smoothed his hand over his salt-and-pepper hair, and looked back at my brother.
“Fat, drunk, and stupid, you once said,” he said to me.
“Yep,” I nodded.
“It’s not nice,” he said, “but it’s funny.”

After a few hours of genteel entertaining, we sent the parents home. I turned to my brother, who had challenged Adam and me to a drinking game.
“So what is this game?”
Beirut, it’s called,” he said.
Beirut?”
Yep.”
Like the city?”
Yeah. You try to sink ping pong balls into the other team’s cups. When you do, they have to drink.”
Oh,” I said, “I think I’ve heard of this.” Behind me, Adam snorted. Actually, I thought, I remembered playing this game for money. Founder led us down to his basement where he had set up his Beirut table. Flounder picked a cute blonde girl for his partner. Brianna was her name. She claimed to have never played the game before. I figured her for a ringer. We set up two sets of six cups in pyramid formation on both sides of the table. We filled each cup up with beer, and then filled two additional cups – the so-called social cups – that we placed to the side of the pyramids.
Okay,” Flounder said, “You each get one shot at the cups per round. No leaning on the table, no blowing on the ball, and no swatting the ball.”
All I have to do is get it in the cup?” I asked.
Yep. And,” Flounder continued, “To the right of your pyramid is a social cup. A shot goes in there, and you need to drink that and then chug a beer.”
“Okay,” I said.
“Oh,” Adam said, as though a light had dawned within his mind “You know, I think I might have played this once.”

We began. Brianna, Flounder’s ringer, sank the first shot, as expected. Adam sank the next one. She sank the next two. Flounder missed wide of the pyramid on each of his turns. I feigned stupidity and missed my first two shots, but then sank the next one. We were tied.
I noticed that my mother had slipped back into Flounder’s house.
“What’s going on?” She asked.
“Flounder and T. are having a grudge match of Beirut,” Zoya explained as I chugged one of beers sunk by Brianna.
“It’s a drinking game,” I said, turning to my mother. I might as well be brazenly honest.
As Zoya and I talked to my mother, I saw Flounder sink our next-to-last cup. Adam and I were one shot from losing. Flounder and Brianna had two cups left, along with their social cup.

“Okay,” Flounder explained, “when one side has one cup left, they shoot until they miss.”
Adam handed me the ping pong balls and I smiled.
“Until we miss?” I asked.
“Yep.”
Without another word, I sank the first ball into one of the pyramid cups. I sank the second ball into Flounder’s social cup.
“Spare another ball, Ace?” I asked my brother.
He rolled a ball across the table. I picked it up and sank it into the last cup in his pyramid.
“You know,” I said, “Adam, I think you’re right. I think we might have played this game before.”
“What a surprise,” my mother said. “Just make sure my youngest survives the night.”
“Will do.”

Flounder came over to my side of the table, and Adam went off to find music for the stereo. Eventually, he gravitated toward a group of coeds and my brother took up the game on the same side. We played a few rounds against some of Flounder’s classmates. By the last one, I was drunk and sloppy. We lost to a couple of the girls that lived in Flounder’s house. They kissed both of us, prompting Flounder and I to blush, and to cause Zoya to mutter something, with a smirk, about college girls.

We went to Citysides after that. It was a local bar and café on Cleveland Circle. After a few rounds of gin, I sat back and watched my brother joking with and teasing a few of the locals. It was good to see him as an adult finally. I had someone to take along with me when I went out. A compatriot. A fellow idiot. It only took seven years for me to find that man.

A few rounds into Citysides, I asked my brother where he wanted to go next.
“Mary Ann’s.”
“Oh no. Absolutely not,” I answered. Adam groaned. Mary Ann’s was a dive bar. A shithole. It was the sort of bar where, once I turned twenty-one, I stopped going there. Flounder wanted to go there now that he didn’t need to suffer so. I looked at him again. He hadn’t changed his answer.
“Well,” I said, “It’s your night.”

Mary Ann’s had rubberized walls and floors so that the staff could hose the bar down at the end of the night. Walking into the dingy bar, I could feel the soles of my shoes sticking to the floor. I grimaced. Behind me, Zoya took a whiff of the stale bar air, a mixture of scents that gravitated strongly toward vomit, and gagged.
“I can’t do this,” she whispered.
“I don’t blame you.”
“No, really. I can’t do this. I’m going to be sick,” she said.
I turned to Zoya. “You don’t need to. Go back to the hotel. Rest. This is going to get ugly.” I handed her the room key and walked out with her. After hailing a cab for her, which Betty and Jaydub ended up sharing (they also didn’t want to be there), I had a cigarette. As with the other bars, there was no smoking in Mary Ann’s. I think it would have improved the smell of the bar.

I walked back in. Flounder was playing a video golf game – Golden Tee – in a corner. Adam was at the bar. The bartenders were fixated with the televisions mounted above the racks of cheap booze. On the televisions, an interviewer was discussing the chances of the Red Sox going to the World Series.

I sidled up to the bar next to Adam and some beefy guy in a flannel shirt and greasy tee shirt.
“What’s safe here,” I asked.
“The exit, I think,” Adam replied. “This place is such a shithole.”
“No kidding. Underage bars tend to be.”
Adam motion to the bartender, trying to get a beer. The bartender, without looking away from the television, waived him away dismissively. I snorted.
“Ah… the Red Sox. The fans do understand the whole ‘Curse of the Bambino’ thing, yes?” I asked.
“They hope against hope,” Adam said.
“Nice. Christians before the lions.”
“Hey… hey, bartender,” Adam called out.
The bartender waived him away again.
“Nice. You made a friend,” I said.
Adam scowled. The bar was full of ignored patrons seeking something – booze, women, drugs (perhaps) – to distract themselves. I walked over to Flounder and looked in on his game. He spun a trackball, firing off a shot.

“Fun time?” I asked.
“Oh yeah. I love Golden Tee.”
“We came here so you could play video golf?”
“Would you have rather I asked to go to a strip club?”
“Not particularly,” I answered.
“Well,” Flounder said, “I didn’t really want to go to one either.”
“Okay.”
We paused. I looked over at Adam. He was still trying to flag down the bartender. I could see him wave his arm again at the bartender. The bartender wasn’t even looking back at him anymore. I could see the back of Adam’s head shake in irritation.
“Granted, you picked what is quite possibly the next worst thing to a strip club,” I said.

Adam was turning to say something to the patron next to him. The patron looked at him, shook his head, and slid his barstool a few inches away from him.

“We can go somewhere after this round,” Flounder said.
Adam said something to the bartender again. This time the bartender whirled around. I put my hand on my brother’s shoulder.
“Let’s see if we actually get through this round,” I said to Flounder. “Come on, he’s going to hurt someone.”
In high school, Adam had wrestled constantly. He was in decent shape. Still, the fights in Mary Ann’s could get rough. During junior year, a student in my dorm put his thumb into a patron’s eye, tearing his retina. By graduation, the legend had spread so that an eye ended up in someone’s beer.

The bartender had his hands on Adam’s sweater by the time we got to them. Adam grabbed onto the bartender’s forearms and slowly began to drag him from behind the bar. The guy next to Adam, who had originally backed away from him, was coming in to grab him. I stepped in between.
“Hey, hey, hey,” I said to the guy, grabbing his arms, “it’s cool, you don’t need to. We’ll get him.” He moved his arms back from me, and I turned to tell Adam to cool it. As I turned, it felt as though a bat had hit me in the eye.
“What the fuck?” I said, stumbling. I shook my head. Flounder was pushing the beefy guy back, who had obviously taken a swing at me. “Piece of shit,” I said, and then swung at the guy’s face, just above my brother’s arm. I connected with his mouth, and could feel his lip split. I pointed my finger at him and was about to chastise him for hitting me when my back was to him when someone tackled me from the side. I slammed against the bar, the lip of it sliding under my armpit as my legs gave way. I gasped. The bar had hit me in the ribs, knocking the wind out of me. I tried to reach around and grab whoever it was that tackled me, but I couldn’t keep myself above the horizontal plane of the bar unless I kept my left arm wrapped securely around the counter. I can hear bottles – probably bottles that I knocked over – breaking as they rolled off the counter and onto the floor by where the bartender used to stand. Currently, the bartender didn’t stand anywhere. Adam had him upside down and was kidney punching him. On the other side of me, I could see that Flounder had stopped grappling with the guy that had sucker-punched me and had simply landed on top of the fellow, restraining in him in the process. Meanwhile, the guy that had tackled me wasn’t doing much of anything. He was just trying to hold me to the spot.

I shifted my weight onto my left leg and braced against the brass rail that ran around the bar. With my right leg, I kicked out at the tackler’s feet. I caught his legs, knocking them out from under him. It broke the tackle, and I spun around. My mouth crashed against the bar, dazing me, but I knew enough to keep moving. I lunged forward, pushing into the barstool ahead of me. The guy that tackled me was getting up on his hands and knees by the time I spun around to face him. There was no debate about what to do. I swung my leg back and kicked him as hard as I could in his gut. I reached over and grabbed Adam’s shoulder.
“Come on!”
I turned to go to the door. My head was throbbing. Adam yelled to me that we needed to get out before the cops showed up. Flounder was still pounding on the guy he had pinned to the floor.
“Flounder, let’s go!”
Flounder ignored me. Adam and I ended up picking him up by his arms and dragging him off the guy. We circled around the bar, pushing people out of our way as we headed to the door.

We sat quietly in O’Leary’s. It was an Irish pub that I used to frequent with one of my philosophy professors, Father Jack. I sipped on a small gin and tonic, letting the citrus juices sting my lip. Flounder sat between Adam and me, hunched over a pint of Guinness.
“I don’t understand how you like this,” he said to me.
“It’s Guinness, P.”
“Yeah, but it tastes like soy sauce.”
“That’s only because your mouth is bleeding.”
“Oh.”
“Just drink the beer.”
I looked over at Adam. “I don’t understand. What happened?”
“I got into a little fight with the bartender,” he said.
“Yeah, but why? Because he wouldn’t get you a beer?”
“No, not because he wouldn’t get me a beer.”
“Well, what then?”
Adam didn’t answer. I shrugged. I reached into my shirt pocket and found a pack of cigarettes. I pulled one out and was about to light it when the bartender reminded me that it was illegal to smoke in bars in Boston.
“Fine, fine,” I grumbled, I’ll go outside.

I smoked the cigarette, alone, in the cool late evening air. It was nearly closing time. Flounder’s birthday had come and gone, and so, it seemed, had the summer. While Boston’s summer ended slightly earlier than mine in New Jersey, I knew I could count on it as a harbinger of the weather to come for me. I took a long drag on the cigarette, coughed slightly, and then flicked the last of the butt into the street. I turned and walked back into the bar.

“So honestly,” I asked Adam again as I sat down, “What caused all that?”
He grimaced. “Well, you know how the bartenders were all watching the highlights on the Red Sox on the television?”
“Yeah.”
“Well, I asked him for a beer, and he waived me away.”
“Um, yeah.”
“And then I asked him again, and he waived me away,” Adam continued.
“Yeah. Yeah, I was there for that part.”
“Yeah, so I ask him for a beer again, and he’s like ‘hold on there Skippy.’”
“’Skippy,’” I snorted.
“Yeah. So I was like, ‘I’m sorry, what’s that? I couldn’t hear you with the Red Sox’s dicks in your mouth.’”
I nearly choked on my drink. Flounder, who seemed the most annoyed by the fight, finally broke out laughing.
“Oh shit. That’s good,” Flounder said.

Tuesday, July 22, 2003

Rashomon in New York: Afterward I went past what you had passed

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SM was in the bathroom, getting ready for dinner. I ran down to the corner drugstore, a thankful cliché in New York, to reload on nicotine patches and mints. I was craving a cigarette so badly that I felt like a cast extra to Requiem for a Dream. A woman in front of me on line was compulsively price checking items. She wasn’t buying anything. She had simply gathered a mass of items – shampoos, tampons, and toothbrushes seemed to be a theme – and requested that the clerk price check each item.

“Sweet Christ on a stick,” I said, finally fed up. I slapped a five-dollar bill on the counter. “Splurge on the Pantene. I’m buying.”

The lady stared at me. Shrugging, I gave my order to the cashier, who mouthed a silent “thank you” to me. I nodded, grabbed my bag, and hustled to the door.

A short sprint and I was back at the hotel. I checked my watch. We were due at the restaurant in twenty minutes. SM was still in the bathroom. I decided to run down a mental list of what I needed. Shirt. Tie. I grimaced. No tie. Pants. What the hell, I’ll wear pants. I grab a pair of linen pants and a linen sport coat from my garment bag and lay them out on the bed. I smooth out a few lines that appeared on the shoulders of the coat, despite the fact that I wrapped the coat in plastic.

I could hear SM step out from the bathroom behind me as I picked at the suit. I reached over and grabbed my Dopp Kit from my bag and turned toward her.

“It’ll just take me a few minutes to….” I dropped my Dopp Kit. SM looked so incredibly elegant in her black dress that, for once, I seemed to be without words.

“Hmm?” She asked.

“Oh, uh… well, I’ll just… I’ll just be out of the bathroom in a minute. I grabbed my kit, my jacket, shirt, and pants, and headed for the black marbled floors of the bathroom. I closed the sliding mahogany door behind me. Wonderful. I’m talking like an addled fourteen year old.

Ten minutes later, we were on our way to the Top of the Tower. The cab ride to the restaurant was quiet. I pointed out my old office on Lexington Street, where I clerked for an entertainment law firm, realizing that it had been three years since I had gone through those doors. I had been devoted to my firm for three years. I didn’t realize that it could be such a long time.

We sat down in a booth alongside the window, watching the sun drop down below the horizon amongst the downtown buildings. Behind us, a couple noisily argued. After a few minutes, it became clear that this argument was a date. Ouch. The man pedantically and relentlessly questioned the woman as to whether she was leading him on. It’s dating, sport. Half the fun is being taken for a ride. Well, metaphorically speaking.

A good Chianti and a bit of duck, and I was sated. We went out to the balcony of the restaurant, where I pointed out the city to SM. My city, I was beginning to think. I was getting tipsy, as I usually did after a bottle of wine. Still, I was feeling the sort of pride in the city that came regardless of how much wine I had ingested. The city is alive, an entity unto itself. It’s such a seductive city, I thought as I continued to point out landmarks.

“That’s the Citi Group headquarters over there. The only tall building in Queens. Of course, that’s because it’s Queens. That down there is Brooklyn.”

“There?”

“No, behind the two bridges. Neat place. Nearly as big as Manhattan. Used to be bigger than the city, back in the day.”

Now it’s the suburb of New York. The place where city dwellers go to escape the city. Meanwhile, their eyes, like mine in New Jersey, turned toward Manhattan, like sailors listening to a siren’s call. ‘Come back to the life,’ it called to me, reminding me of my brief stint in one of the truly big law firms, ‘come and be aggressive. You know you want to….’ I shook my head, clearing it of the reverie.

“And over there?” SM asked.

“That? Well, that’s Jersey. The lit-up part is Perth Amboy. From there, ships run out to Battery Park for commuters. A lot of people took those back after 9-11. There’s a hell of a Portuguese community in that town. All of these incredible restaurants, and it looks like a refinery at night. They ought to fix that place up.”

“And where’s your town?”

I sighed and tried to reconnoiter my home from landmarks.

“There,” I said pointing, “Over there. Follow the highway down into the cleft between two hills. That’s the Raritan Bay, there. Running up from that bay beside the hill on the left, you can see lights heading out – way out – to sea. That’s where the Navy resupplies its frigates. Earle Naval Weapons Center, it’s called. Just before the lights leave land, follow the hill straight up. I’m on the other side, on the Navesink Bay.”

“It’s dark over there.”

It’s peace there. It’s friends and trees and those things I want to hold dear. It’s the walking away from opportunity, the embrace of that which was not merely work, that gave me a taste of the fortune that is contentment.

“There’s not much there. A few small suburbs, a minor city or two, and the Navy. But, I guess, that’s its charm.”

We turned to head in. The wind was picking up off the Atlantic, and a group of tourists with thick German accents were bustling past us aggressively. After a failed attempt at entering the Empire State Building, wherein one of my worst attempts at a con with the security guard failed to get us in after closing time, we headed down to the Temple Bar.

I could feel the weight of work on me. As much as I wanted to, there was no way we could stay up all night, enjoying the City. After a few drinks at the bar, we headed back and crashed.


“Oh God,” I said, “My brain is broken.”

It was 11:00. That much I could figure out as I stared up at my wristwatch, confused. I hadn’t realized how much I had to drink the night before. Aching and dry-throated, I rolled off the settee and stumbled into the bathroom. I needed water. After the second glass, I stepped into the shower, resting my head against the cool tile on the wall.

“I’m broken,” I moaned.

We made it out of the room slowly, meandering to one of the traditional New York style delis. SM and I were glassy eyed and slow-minded, and took a while to re-caffeinate and become human again.

“What’s a …. Blintz?”

“It’s a crepe, metastasized into something horribly wrong,” I mumbled, still trying to figure out how to get sugar out of its crusty aluminum-and-glass container and into my coffee.

“And gefilte fish?”

“Pure evil. Outlawed in combat under the Geneva Conventions after the ’72 Olympics.”

“What?!”

I shrugged as I succeeded in popping off the top of the sugar dispenser. Half of the container of sugar ended up in my coffee.

“Fish. Evil fish. There’s nothing good about them. Comes with horseradish. Designed for masochists and people who don’t talk often.”

We ended up settling on the salmon for SM and the roast beef for me. The waitress came back with what appeared to be two full filets of salmon for her and a pound – this I verified with the waitress – of roast beef between two feeble slices of rye for me.

“Well, salmon’s back on the endangered list,” SM joked.

“I’m eating an entire cow. I have a mad cow. Here. In my hands,” I said as I waived half of my sandwich around, “A mad cow. Maybe three of them.”

We needed more caffeine, it was clear.

After lunch, we headed down to the Financial District. SM wanted to see Ground Zero. In truth, I didn’t. I hadn’t been back to the Financial District since before September 11. I had made it a practice to require all of my Wall Street clients to come to me. I had avoided seminars or committees that took place in or near the Southern District of New York’s courthouse, a few blocks away. To see the place was to remember. That, I did not want to do.

Still, there we were, twenty minutes after leaving the deli. It was quiet, walking down Church Street. A few tourists mingled around a Haitian selling World Trade Center-themed trinkets. Perhaps when I was younger, I would have found that offensive. Perhaps I would have considered it turning a temple into a robber’s den, but now, I felt as though it was a symbol that New York was still, well, New York. It was still there for someone to make a buck, to be an entrepreneur, to find that which people wanted.

We continued on past the hawker, and made our way to the chain link fence surrounding Ground Zero. I was beginning to shake, I could tell.

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I started explaining to SM my story of September 11th. I was supposed to be in the city for a conference on valuation. I was late because I couldn’t find the address to the graveyard in which was buried Alexander Hamilton. I ended up going to the office, instead, because I missed my train. The graveyard was a block from Ground Zero. My father had a bench-bar conference in the federal offices at Seven World Trade Center Plaza (which collapsed under the weight of Tower Two). After spending a lazy half-hour checking out ESPN’s website, my father missed the early ferry from Atlantic Highlands. He stepped off of the ferry at Battery Park just in time for the explosion that consumed most of the towers. He turned around and got back onto the ferry, never leaving the dock. My father, one of the more punctual men I have known, and I, one of the least punctual men alive, were saved by procrastination, it seemed.

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Some friends weren’t saved. Swede Chevalier, a classmate from high school, worked in Cantor Fitzgerald. He had a landscaping business that he used to pay his way through college and business school. Each summer during our college years, I would see him driving around town in a ragged old Ford pick-up, a ton of mulch in the back, a wood chipper in tow. Quiet, resourceful, and remarkably humble for a stockbroker, Swede was rarely likely to leave an impression, but for a sense of genuine decency.

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I saw Swede’s name on the “Wall of Heroes” that had been attached to the chain link fence, and turned away. I didn’t want to be there at all. SM took a hold of my hand.

“I think,” I said, pressing my thumb and forefinger to my eyes, “I think that is what’s left of the Deutsche Bank building. The towers fell on that, too.”

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They fell on everyone and everything within one hundred miles. They are the zeitgeist of this city now. They turned this from a gleeful, charming den of tricksters to a mausoleum, with sackcloth and ashes.

We walked down to the end of the towers, looking into the gaping hole that was once their foundations. SM still held my hand. The warmth was there, a sweet gesture reminding me that there was still life, that there was still a pulse here.

“How about we go to Battery Park?” I suggested.

We had paid our respects, and it was time to leave. I won’t come back.

Battery Park was filled with tourists getting tickets to see Ellis Island. The line of people waiting to see where half of today’s America came from stretched fifty yards, and looped back and forth within that distance. We decided against going to the island. Instead, we watched the ferries and ships pass back and forth between the Hudson, the Arthur Kill, and out into the Atlantic. Street performers and proselytizers passed us, selling their wares or beliefs. We grabbed bottles of water at a hotdog stand, and continued to mill around, looking at the pictures being sold at booths, the children playing amongst the trees, and the water shimmering around us.

At Central Park, a half-hour after leaving Battery Park, we saw a regular weekend contingent there. SM commented that it seemed packed, as though there were a mob there. I thought back to when I saw Paul Simon in the park, and it was truly packed. Nearly a half million people were there that night. We walked up past Strawberry Fields, past the carousel (where I restrained myself from quoting lines from Ransom, which was filmed nearby), and down to the smaller south Park lakes. There we sat, watching the rollerbladers, commenting on those that shouldn’t wear tight clothing (beside myself), and amusing ourselves with general inanities. Strange, how people can become friends simply by writing to each other; as though the words we type or utter are substitutes for common identities or histories.

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After braving the Empire State Building, where I rediscovered my fear of heights (an irony I dealt with back when I used to rock climb), we headed over to Grand Central Station. Our energy levels had dropped precipitously. I was still in love with the frescos painted on the ceiling, the neo-renaissance constellations painted on an indigo background. We grabbed some ice cream and slumped down at tables on the floor below the Metro North station.

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I ended up missing the last train out of the city that night. We stayed up talking, first over Thai food in a shoebox-sized Gramercy restaurant, then walking the streets around Times Square. I found a picture to add to my growing collection of neon sign shots.

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We found that we enjoyed the lazy rhythm of conversation. Ebb and flow. We found out that it was well after 11:20 PM. I gathered up my gear, and headed down to Times Square. There was no way I could take the light rail across the Hudson to Newark in time for a train out of that city. Besides, I realized, the thought of waiting for a train in the wee hours of the morning in Newark was a decidedly foolhardy endeavor. I decided, instead, to do something I had wanted to do for years.

“How would you like to make $100 tonight?” I said to the cabby through the dirty, scratched Plexiglas barrier.

“Wherever you want to go, sir.” The cabby had a thick Dominican accent.

“Drive. Just drive, he said.”

“Sir?”

“Take me to New Jersey.”

Sitting in work on Monday, I felt fried. I had enjoyed the weekend, free – truly free – from work for the first time in months. It was just as cleansing as it was exhausting. I had a bit of life back. Thus, when SM called and asked if I would be coming up for dinner that night as well, I had no trouble making that decision.

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As you can see, Sugarmama is much funnier than I am (and also much more photogenic; me, I look like an orangutan who somehow found his way into a suit). This is her
most recent post on our recent New York trip. Mine shall be forthcoming shortly.


I am headed off to the beach for a few days, but I wanted to finish posting the story of my trip before I leave. There it is, below. I will be back late Tuesday.

Trip to New York, days 3 through 5

On Sunday I woke up dehydrated with a sore, scratchy throat. Apparently the air in NY, both pollution and lower humidity, aggravated my throat and made me feel as if I had just smoked a pack of cigarettes. Which, by the way, was impossible considering that people are not allowed to smoke inside bars and restaurants in the city. I like this rule, no matter how unconstitutional. If you need some secondhand smoke, I found plenty on the sidewalks and streets, where the disgruntled smokers are still puffing away.

We had our first stop of the day in a midtown delicatessen. The menu fascinated me. I asked TPB what challah and latkes were. The sandwiches on the menu were each one pound of meat. This doesn't make any sense to me. Who can eat an entire pound of sandwich meat in one sitting? The waitress brought us Cokes (some places in NYC sell both Coke and Pepsi) and a bowl full of whole pickles and coleslaw. Excessive again. I don't know how two people could possibly consume four pickles each and one pound of meat in one sitting.

After lunch, we headed south to the WTC site. I knew TPB had reservations about visiting the site, having known so many people who were directly affected by the terrorist attack. My experience of September 11 has been limited to video and images passed through mediums such as television and print, and I wanted to see the area firsthand. The site is in the midst of the beginnings of a reconstruction effort (despite the current altercations about what to do next) and is surrounded by a tall fence. My eyes immediately drifted to the buildings covered in (a WTC building and the Deutsche Bank building) shrouds, waiting to be demolished, and then to the Century 21 department store behind us, damaged in the attack but now operational. And then we came upon the rusted metal cross that sits upon the site and a metal plaque commemorating the names of those who passed away during the attack. The feeling I got was similar to how I felt when visiting the Vietnam Veterans’ Memorial in DC and the Pearl Harbor Memorial in Hawaii. The other tourists milling about shared the same sense of solemnity. I grabbed and squeezed TPB’s hand as we were walking away. He was being very quiet and I was concerned that I had put a permanent black cloud over his head.

We continued walking until we reached Battery Park. The plan was to take the boat to Ellis Island, but we decided against this when we saw the line of a few hundred people with the same idea. TPB pointed out a few landmarks, including the area of New Jersey where some unfortunate people tolerate him on a regular basis.

Next we decided to take the elevator to the top of the Empire State Building. This is quite a tourist attraction, and we MOOOOOOOOved through several lines and squished into an elevator, then at the top mulled around with a large amount of people in order to take photos from each direction. TPB pointed out several landmarks, one of my favorites being the Chrysler Building. At this point I am reaching a level of exhaustion quite unlike anything I have experienced even in other cities such as DC and New Orleans. TPB was very kind for being a conscientious tour guide during the weekend. He navigated well, was able to understand the subway (the maps STILL confuse me), was patient when I needed to sit down and rest, and also very patient when I was picky about where to eat. Traveling with Sugarmama is not always a walk in the park.

Speaking of park, we also visited Central Park. We walked through from the south to the west side, stopping to look at Strawberry Fields and a carousel. I was tired and wanted to sit down and people watch, which we did for an hour or so. I was amazed at how many people were in the park for no apparent reason at all other than to enjoy a nice day. If that many people were in the park at home, we would have called it a major music festival.

After this we decided to visit Grand Central Station, which is one of my favorite places in NY. The building is beautiful right down to minute details such as the antique brass mailboxes and ticket windows. The windows are breathtaking and the painted ceiling is gorgeous. We stopped and ate ice cream to maintain the level of blood sugar necessary for a whirlwind tour on NY on a hangover and little sleep.

On the way to dinner, we walked through Times Square at dusk and took photos. Photography in Times Square is nearly impossible. There is too much action, not enough stillness, not even for 1/125th of a second. Not even for 1/1000th of a second. I think TS is the most sensory-overloading aspect of the city. I chucked to TPB about the giant ramen noodle billboard placed where the apple drops at New Year’s: “They spent that much money to advertise a product which costs less than fifty cents?”

We found a very tiny Thai restaurant in the East 50’s that looked promising. A guy walking by stopped and said, “Not five minutes ago, someone was telling me that this place is very good.” New Yorkers are a lot friendlier than they are given credit for. I discovered this on my first trip to New York and was delighted to find that they haven’t changed in that regard. TPB and I dined on Tom Yum soup, Thai iced teas, chicken masaman and paht something or other. Very good, and I liked that the front of the restaurant was open to the street, that we were the only patrons there at the end of our meal, and that the mirrors on the walls offered a warped, infinitesimal view of the tiny room. I had one of those “record this for posterity” moments when TPB left momentarily to get cash from an ATM (oops, the restaurant does not take credit cards). The sound of cars passing by, the gentle breeze from the open storefront, and the sight of the waitress’s head bobbing (all hundred mirrored copies of her) while counting money at the register, is one of those odd, inconsequential experiences now permanently etched into my memory.

After dinner, TPB headed out of the city for his enslavery to the Man the following morning. I had a training class the next day and also wanted to get a good night's rest.

The training class was in the Grace Building and had a nice view of the Empire State Building (photo forthcoming). The instructor, who had an Italian surname, was surprised to discover that someone with an ethnic surname lived in Alabama. “There are a few of us left,” I laughed. The goal of the class was to listen and stay awake, and this required a heavy caffeine intake. For lunch, I pigged out on sushi, and was elated that everything I ate was so damn good, and put the sushi at home to a crying shame. Not to mention, sushi in the city is relatively cheap. California rolls: $3.50 in New York, $5.50 at home. And they have these cool take-out sushi places where you walk in, pick out a pre-wrapped package, pay for it and take off. Lunch was good, and I ate sushi again the following day. I could eat sushi two meals a day if my wallet would let me. If I lived in New York, I would turn into a human-sized piece of sushi, if you are what you eat.

After the class, I took some photos of Rockefeller Center and then wandered down 5th Avenue for some shopping. I spent way too much time in FAO Schwarz looking at toys for my future niece/nephew, and bought him/her/it a Pat-the-Bunny rabbit from the classic children’s book that I enjoyed during my childhood. I also bought TPB a giant purple teddy bear to be a companion to his pink one.

The next stop was Tiffany, and I used TPB’s purple teddy bear to catch the drool hanging out of my mouth. Not everything is insanely expensive at Tiffany. I already have an Elsa Peretti silver bean necklace, and I was eyeing some other necklaces that were pretty. And diamonds. And earrings. And bracelets. And diamonds.

I also shopped for clothes, although I am loathe to update my wardrobe from 1988. That was such a good year.

TPB agreed to return back into the city on Monday because I told him I was scared and couldn’t function without him. After being released from slavery work, he met me at the hotel and we decided to eat at a Spanish restaurant. The gazpacho was the first I’ve eaten that tasted exactly like it did in Spain, so I was elated. I wasn’t as thrilled about the paella, which I picked at. I was bad and played with a baby octopus, before realizing that I don’t think TPB would humor bad table manners.

After dinner we wandered around a bit in the crisp evening air, and reflected on the activities of the weekend. I was able to trick myself into feeling relaxed, although the constant noise made me feel wound up.

On Tuesday I was released from the training class around three and hung out in Bryant Park, enjoying an incredibly beautiful day along with a few hundred other New Yorkers. My time in the city was coming to an end, and while I was wistful, a good night’s sleep in my own bed sounded tantalizing.

I returned to the hotel and took a cab to LaGuardia. I have never been so exhausted. I sat in a chair at the gate, breathing quickly as if I had the flu, and could not muster the energy to read the New York Times. I felt like a rag doll. I am a stranger in a strange land, I thought, while watching travelers pass by. Two Southern women strutted by slowly, like roosters, holding their Cokes as if they were items for show-and-tell. Finally, I was roused by the call for boarding. As the plane took off at sunset, the view from my window was breathtaking: the island of Manhattan. I could pick out the Empire State and Chrysler Building from the air. I am amazed at how many people live on that tiny little sliver of land. At home, only three people live on a piece of land that size.

The flight home was quiet but cold (planes do not need to be 60 degrees). The heavy, humid air enveloped me as I descended the steps (this was a tiny plane) onto the tarmac and into Alabama. I walked through the 14-gate “International” airport, and one thought crossed my mind:

Shit. I am a homeowner.